Sailboat owners Gord and Sue aboard their 55' Whitby Ketch "Ocean Wings" share their adventures and travels as they start their retirement,living their dream of seeing the world from oceanside.
Movin on again. I must say this is one of the bays high up on our list of places to be.
5 Park moorings, with no anchoring, so there can never be more than 5 boats. White sand, reef on both sides and middle, diving off Booby Rock and Concordia Eco Village up on the hill with a wonderful restaurant. Truly Paradise. It was quite a trek up thru the brush along a narrow, hard to find trail to the eco village,
I guess it's this way ?
But with reservations for dinner, they sent a car down to the bay to pick us up and delivered us back. And the food along with the incredible view was amazing.
Eco Village above Salt Pond beach
In this bay it was a toss up between snorkelling or swimming at the beach, so for 5 days we did both.
Snorkelling on this reef we saw some fish we had not seen before as well as 3 different kinds of rays and many turtles.
Scrawled Filefish
Blue Head Wrasse
Yellow Tail Damselfish
Spotted Ray
Spotted Eagle Ray
Momma Turtle
Regular ray
sea slug
Swimming with the Turtles
Hawksbill Turtle
We even took the $1.00 bus up over the top of the island into Cruz Bay to see the sites and some shopping. Now that's quite the experience, more like a roller coaster ride, in some spots the bus stopped as there was not enough room for 2 vehicles to pass, blowing its horn as it went around the hairpin turns. I don't think there was a single stretch of road that was straight for any longer than 500 ft.
Cruz Bay style parking
While sitting watching the sunset in Salt Pond, we hear a guy on the radio asking if anyone has their radio on. Thinking he wanted a radio check Gird answered. Instead he wanted to know if anyone knew the heading for St Martaan. He was currently in Tortola BVI and thought he'd go to St Martaan overnight, but didn't know the way and was looking for directons. Can you believe there are boaters like that. Take off ino the dark on the open ocean and ask another boater for a heading instead of having charts or gps.
It's very surprising you don't hear about more disasters at sea.
Well all things miust come to an end.... Next stop Coral Harbour for supplies.
With the wind still howling but the skies clear, the thought of another night at such a rolly anchorage was more than we could bear, so we take off and no sooner do we get out there than the rain starts up again and heavy black clouds roll in. We think Ok we'll tuck into Great Cruz Bay, it's sheltered and close by. In we cruise only to discover it's another one of those overcrowded bays so full full of moorings that a once lovely turquoise bay and white sand beach is now a cesspool packed with boats that everyone lives on full time, but rarely move. We ask ourselves why do the authorities let this happen, kills the bay, drives away tourists and most of these boats are never moved or hauled out, so how safe are the moorings or the boats. After every hurricane, everyone finds out as these boats litter the beach as wrecks that no one ever moves.
Great Cruz in 2009, Now with 3-4 times the permant private liveaboards packed into the bay
No room at the Inn, so we move on and head for Lamesure Bay, which is part of the National Park, where they do not permit anchoring, but provides mooring balls at $15.00 per night and NO Liveaboards.
Lamesure is a beautiful , clean anchorage and we enjoy a couple of days of snorkelling and swimming and happy hour with a couple of fellow boaters John and Lela aboard " Yachtsman's Dream" and Chris and Yoni aboard "Magus"
Red Hook Fuel Dock-the specks are moored boats and in 2009 there were only about 1/3 of the # there today
Saddly leaving Magens Bay behind, we figured fuel and water might be a good idea before we cruise along the south side of St John's. Red Hook is the only game in town on that end of St Thomas, so that's where we'll go. Although it is a crowded, difficult access harbour. We came into the fuel dock with such strong winds blowing us forward that we actually had the engine in reverse and we're still going forward at 3 kts, but Gord greased it on like a pro, No Problem! When we go to leave there are boats on private moorings filling the bay, so tightly packed in that you can't get between them or around them, not even leaving a proper channel open. We must back up. Oh No, way to difficult, but also the only game in town. The wind is still blowing and we almost make it. Almost, as we turn in backwards and go to pull out, the wind catches us sideways and blows us too close to a large wooden piling, the boat is clear, but it catches the bow of the dinghy hanging from the davits. """Sproing"" it hits, catches and bounces clear, when we look back, the starboard Davit is bent down 6 ''. We're talking 4 " heavy stainless tubing, thru our deck and mounted in a boot to the bottom of the Deck locker with 5200 ( boaters glue- holds anything and never never gives) And it didn't, the whole installation was so strong that the only thing that could give was the 4'' stainless tubing, and it did. The challenge now will be how to bend it back?? any ideas???
We anchor on the edge of the harbour in the rock and rollin waves , assess the damage. It could have been worse, might have cracked the deck or popped the dinghy. So we settle in for the night with a couple of strong drinks.
In the morning is rock n roll n rain ( I mean heavy downpours) but its off to the dinghy dock, get groceries and find internet. Groceries were no problem and the internet is available so we tuck ourselves into a table at Molly Malones bar and order lunch. However, the internet is there but not wanting to talk to me. Our friendly waiter can't understand why I'm having trouble logging on, he's downloading bit torrents in the back room and having no trouble at all. Hello! limited band width and he's sucking it all.
What can I say... It's the Islands
Well, were off exploring the north side of St Thomas, as yet uncharted territory for Ocean Wings. As we head out of Lindburgh after another rolly, rolly night. We’re determined to find an anchorage that is calm enough to give us a good, steady nights sleep.
The winds are about 12 kts from the ESE, so the first bay to check out is Botany Bay/Sandy Bay. Heading west we have to go out past the point before we can cut thru to round the point of the island and back into Botany.
I guess the fish like a little respite from the wind and waves as well, on the reef between the islands there is a whale frolicking in the surf. He surfaces and blows, flips his tail around and repeats the routine over and over. Unfortunately he was too far away for any good pics, so you’ll just have to take my word for how precious that was.
Into Botany and it’s a no go as it is not a deep enough bay to keep the rollers out, and that is the goal. No Rollers. So back to charts and lets check out Santa Maria Bay. Just another along and we slip into the far south end of Santa Maria into 20 ft of water in front of a white sand beach fringed with palm trees, and guess what? We’re the only boat and we have a deserted beach to ourselves.
Alone in Santa Maria Bay
It’s like a little piece of the south Pacific and so we drop the hook in 20 ft of clear blue water in front of the sand beach. The sleeping was calm, with only a few turns and sways. So we stayed 2 nights and swam, snorkeled and sat out on the deck and watched the stars in absolute complete solitude.
Santa Maria Beach
Giant brain Coral
Hundreds of Blue Tang
Little trigger Fish
Purple Coral
The snorkeling on the east side of the bay was really great with huge hollow coral shelves and deep crevaces, you could swim between and beneath the coral chasing the fish and a few very shy lobsters.
Lobster hunter with his homemade tickle stick
Now it’s up the anchor and go check out Megans Bay, which is rated as one of the top ten beaches in the world. It’s a long deeply indented bay with a gorgeous powder white sand beach circling the whole end of the bay. It definitely lives up to it’s reputation. Why are there so few boats here enjoying this paradise? ( just 2 other sailboats in the bay) However it may be because there are lots of people on the beach. It’s a park with showers, bars, snack stands, boutique and water toy rentals. The cruise ships cab their guests here by the hundreds. But it’s a big beach with room for everyone. The bar has a unique service where the waitresses in their bikinis serve drinks to you right out in the water and the nice news is the park closes by 6pm and the cruise guests leave by 4pm. After that the sunsets and long stretch of beach are all ours.
Magens Bay
Turtles of all Kinds in Magens Bay
We discovered a private beach, nearer to our boat, with the same white powder sand, separated from the the main beach by about a 1/2 mile of rocks and boulders. We parked our new beach chairs and broke open the beer and novels. A couple of other people arrived and set up their spot for the day. Next thing we realized they had shed all their clothes and were lying on the sand naked. The next few arrivals did the same.
What way Do You Look??
Better hide your eyes
We packed up and did a hasty retreat. Found out later from Lisa, a great local lady we met on the beach that it is indeed a nude beach and also known to be a gay nude beach.
I guess it's the big beach from now on.
Off our little " private Beach" we discovered the wreck of what used to be a large sailboat in about 15 ft of water. Fairly recently sunk ( maybe last years hurricane) you can still tell it was white with a blue stripe. Our first wreck dive.
Cockpit of the boat
deck and companion way
As the sun was setting, we set out in the dinghy with fishing rods and trolled along the shoreline for a couple of evenings. We caught one small silver fish, which Gord ate for dinner. I prefer not to eat mystery fish. So unless I know exactly what it is, and we didn’t. I prefer to pass.
We'd parked the dinghy on the beach a few days later and I said to Gord that that one little fish had left the dinghy pretty stinky and in need of cleaning. As we emptied out all our stuff, there to our surprise was a very stiff, very dead flying fish about a foot long, tucked into the edge of the dinghy under the velcro tab that holds the oars. He must have flown in the day before and couldn't get out. We laughed and laughed, they wouldn't take the lure, but prefered to jump aboard all on their own. Mystery of the stink solved.
We miss everyone at home and would love to call home more often, but that's difficult from down here. You might say " good phone connections are hard to find"
Dennis arrived right on time on the plane just after Wendy and Elmers departure.
He was lucky and his luggage arrived with him.
He was doubly lucky when on our first snorkel in Francis bay we spotted a small Nurse Shark sleeping on the bottom.
We did all the touristy things, saw the Jumbies, visited the Baths, watched Micheal Bean and snorkelled and swam in a variety of Bays, as well as shopped and shopped and shopped for tropical shirts.
Our cannon Discovery
We even spotted a cannon on the bottom near a reef. It was in amazing condition and was probably recently unburied from hundreds of years in it's watery home. Wonder where the treasure from that ship went?
Wendy and Elmer have arrived as scheduled and we are waiting there with camera and Rum ready.
1St Caribbean rum
However their luggage decided that it wanted a different holiday and refused to get on the same flight as they did.
Where oh where is my underwear ?
The nice airline people tracked it down, still sitting on the tarmac in Miami, scolded it and made it get on the next flight to St Thomas.
Just a little inconvenience, we had dinner at the Best Western Caribe, dinghy'd to the boat for a happy hour and were awaiting it's tardy arrival on the 9:35 flight as it rolled off the luggage rack.
Day 1
Follow the finger to our home away from home
This is the Life
Tough day for the guys
Tougher day for all of us
Day 2
Another swim in Lindberg, only this time we weren't alone. Unbeknownst to us the jelly fish were out in full force and before we knew it they had attacked Wendy and Sue. Silent, invisible and painfull. Wendy may bear the scars for life.
We checked out Charlotte Amalie by dinghying thru the cut and landing at Yacht Haven Grand, where we hobknobbed with the Mega Yachts and did a little shopping. Sue and Wendy for sun dresses and Elmer a fancy tropical shirt and some souvenirs ( they saw him coming)
On the wish list
shopping
Wendy and I tried to talk the guys into Diamonds, Rubies and Emeralds, ( this is the duty free jewellery capitol ), but they just wouldn't buy into that program. Claimed they were protecting us from Shark and Baracuda attacks by keeping the the shiny bling bling to a minimum.
Day 3
We hoisted sail and got out of Dodge/ Lindbergh Bay and headed into the wind bound for Francis Bay. No engine failures thru the cut this time. T.G.
Captain in Training
Lo and Behold, who sitting there but our favorite Capt Carl & first and 2nd mate Judy.
Carl & Judy
It was a short visit as north swells were predicted and they hi tailed it out of there early the next morning for Leinster Bay to ride it out. We decided to tuck ourselves against the hill and just enjoy the ride. Turned out to be a good decision as we had very little rocking.
We did the trek up 163 stairs up to the Ego Village restaurant to enjoy the view and and the food.
Eco Camp
The Eco village is built into the hillside on Francis/Maho Bay with stairs going up everywhere, and off those stairs are platforms with permanent type tents erected and rented out to eco minded tourists for $185.00 per night. Included is all the stairs you can climb, no indoor plumbing, voracious insects, a fabulous white sand beach ( just 1000 ft below you) It's highly recommended that you don't forget all the essentials on the trek down for the day.
Some people will pay dearly for almost any experience!
Day 4
Designer Goggles
Wendy got to try out her new prescription mask on our 1st snorkel along the reef at Francis. She actual got to see the big turtles swimming beneath us. We tried to hitch a ride , but they're slippery suckers.
Graceful Entry
Fresh Conk
As if the snorkelling wasn't enough exercise, Elmer said he needed his 45 min walk ( I think we're feeding him too much) so we took him on a 3 hr hike to the Annanbergh Sugar Mill ruins and then the Manor house 3 hills away.
View from Manor House
Sugar Mill ruins
I think he got his money's worth.
But, it did make him hungry again so we hit the Eco restaurant again for dinner that night.
Day 5
Today's a beach day, Francis Bay is the most beautiful clean white sand and we were still tucked in here out of the North Swell, but the sun was shinning and the bodies were definitely pinking up and we got to swim with a couple of Turtles
Chillin in Francis bay
Happy Birthday to Sadie who is 3 yrs old today. Had no internet so we called on the BVI phone ( hang the cost)
Happy 3rd Birthday Sadie
The Genny was doing her usual noisy routine, but for some reason the batteries are just not topping up the way they should. We were all on deck enjoying our happy hour beveridge when the most aweful stench of boiling, burning battery acid wafted its way up from the engine room. Oh Oh!! our answer to the uncharged batteries just made itself known. The one bad one was sucking the others dry. Switch to plan B?
Day 6
Capt Gord made an executive decision. We cannot go on with no power, so we jump start the engine and head back to Crown Bay to look for our friend and trusty boat fixer "Joe"
Wendy and Elmer get to experience the sheer terror of trying to dock this baby in a tight marine with a cross wind. We have them white faced, clenched knuckled and quaking.
Then Gord just slides it onto the dock as easy as pie. You'd think we knew what we were doing.
Joe confirms that it is a rotten battery and must go, but to our dismay it's taking 2 more of its friends with it. 3 New batteries. Ouch!!!
But, it's an opportunity for some more shopping at the cruise ship dock, a great happy hour on board ( everythings fixed) with Joe and Paul .. who happens to also own a Whitby boat. Then off to Tickles for some music and food.
Day 7
Sopers Hole
Customs
We're outa here, Again! A quick jaunt into Sopers Hole where we check into the British Virgins at their sophisticated hi tech Customs office at the edge of the Bay.
Then its off to The Bight at Norman Island for an evening of fun aboard The Willy T.
Sad to say none of us lost their clothes, jumped naked from the roof or fell into the water from deck or dinghy. Not enough shots for this crowd. But we had a blast and some of us paid for it the next day.
Day 8
Wendy and Elmer have been here a week already, it's gone so fast.
4th Captain
Seasoned Sailors Already
It's Jumbie night at Leverick Bay and that's not to be missed, so off we head to North Sound.
Jumbie Wannabees
Still some swell out there and the crashing waves over our bow were getting Wendy all excited ( she's a thrill seeker) so she just had to stand up on deck and video.
The Jumbie show was great and we ran into Francois and Marie with their kids and company aboard "Excalibur" also taking in the show. So, obviously they made it back from St Maarten during calm seas without our assistance.
Wendy got to dance with the tallest guy she'll ever waltz with check it out.
Day 9
We moved the boat from Leverick to just across the bay to anchor in front of the Sandbox for some Beach Time. It's been a tough week and we definitely need some
R n R, lol.
Beachcombers
Day 10
Coppermine Point
We decide on an island tour and rent a car to head 1st to the copper mine ruins,
then for lunch and a tour of Ocean Wings home away from home " Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour".
Then we're off the The Baths.
The Baths are one of Natures wonders and are a must see on a visit to the Virgins.
After a tiring day we are back at the boat for Elmer's Birthday dinner.
Birthday Pie
Happy Birthday Elmer, hope it was a good one.
Day 11
Still in North Sound as we must stick around for the Micheal Bean Pirate show tonight.
Wendy and Elmer have learned all about the "Dinghy Dash" while here in North Sound. It's a big Bay with 4 different resorts on 4 different parts of the bay, so once you're anchored its a dinghy ride to everywhere.
North Sound- full of yachts
The Dinghy Dash consists of swinging off the back of the boat, flinging yourself into the dinghy, hoping that you don't bounce overboard, once everyones aboard. then the person in the bow gets to lean out and cut us loose for the ride of your life.
Bouncing thru the waves it's tough to know whether fast or slow is better as the salt water waves wash over the bow of the dinghy soaking everyone and everything in sight.
There we are huddled together trying to keep dry, which is a totally futile task.
Why do we shower and why do we put on clean clothes to go out. That's the Dinghy Dash question of the day.
So today we do the Dinghy Dash over to The Bitter End Yacht Club and Birius Creek Resort to check them out. High class at over $750.00 per night. A little out of our league. However, we did grab a nice swim, relax and walk on the beach with their private pool all to ourselves, then gorged ourselves at the Fat Virgin on blue cheese burgers. Yummmm!
Overlooking the Atlantic- from "our private pool"
Another dinghy dash into the Micheal Bean Show. Great as always and I was in top form on the trivia and won several pieces of eight towards drinks and t-Shirts.
Day 12
Riding Shotgun
Off to Monkey Point to Snorkel. Then were off to Jost Van Dyke to check out on our way to The Spanish Virgin Islands.
The snorkeling was great and Great Harbour at Jost was as usual. Crowded and the staff at Foxy's always seem to have a somewhat rude attitude. But it's the check out point , so everyone goes anyway.
Modern Plumbing
Elmer, can't leave work Behind and must inspect the water system on Jost Van Dyke
Thought we'd stock up on a few groceries, so we hit the local store. The fridge which is the dairy case, meat case and produce case all in one had some rotting potatoes, 1 small tomatoe , lots of rust and nothing else. So we're going packaged.
Day 13
First Stop - Culebrita. The weather has calmed down, but too much and we probably won't be able to sail to Culebra, which is a great run. But were off by 9am and on our way.
The ride over was so calm, that we lay out on the front deck and sunned ourselves, arriving in Bahia du Tortuga on Culebrita by noon. We couldn't wait to get into the water it was so clear and turquiose blue. We headed to the beach and then off to the Jacuzzis, where the water frothed and bubbled as it poured over the rocks from the outer ocean into our secluded pool where we snorkeled amongst the bubbles. Amazing!!
Bubbling Jacuzzi's
Jacuzzis
Underwater Shelling
instead of walking back Wendy and I snorkeled back. When I popped my head up and said anyone want Lobster for dinner, Gord just couldn't get his snorkel gear on fast enough.
I thought Lobsters wadled round on those silly looking legs, but boy was I wrong, they can really move. and that's what they did , evading capture each time. it got later and later, till I caught a flash beside me and there was a shark chasing a fish like he was really , really hungery. I'm outta there and dragging everyone with me as quick as I could. Close escape!
Day 14
It's head to Culebra, check in at customs and find the ferry dock for info on Puerto Rico. a quick walk around town and a stop at the grocery store, then Happy Hour aboard make for a lazy day.
Happy Hour on Deck
Day 15
Up at what time?? 5.00am it isn't even light yet. But we're off to catch the 6:30 ferry to Fajardo on Puerto Rico. Rented a car and poor Gord gets to navigate the streets of Puerto Rico. Glad it isn't me.
Local Puerto Rican Hangout
Puerto Rico Street Scape
Real Estate in Puerto Rico
Day 16 Old San Juan
Olde San Juan
What a beautiful old city, with amazing architecture and hidden little gardens and courtyards. As well as a fort and walls surrounding the city which were the original protected fortress.
Soldiers Quarters
Lovely restaurant in the hotel for dinner, but can you believe, they have NO SALAD, my main food . How can a top notch restaurant be out of food at 7pm in the evening. Me thinks they need some new management.
Day 17 Garmy Needs an Update
San Juan is such a major city , and like any other keeps updating their road system with new roads. We allowed ourselves a leisurely 2 hrs to get back to the Fajardo Ferry ( after last years harrowing ride) We’re cruising along looking at the sites and patting ourselves on the back on what a breeze it is with Garmy navigating for us when all of a sudden she panics and starts with the recalculating, recalculating and shows us spinning around in an open field. What the heck**** we’re definitely on a 4 lane , highway that does exist. But, Garmy can’t see it. Oh Oh.
Thanks to Wendy & Elmer’s local map purchase and a few circles out of our way we are back on track, we hope. Even the new map does not show this road. But it’s headed in the right direction , so we’re going for it.
We connect back with a known road and arrive at the Ferry with only 10 min to spare.
Just made the Ferry !
Saved again! Next time a 3 hr start.
Day 19 Back in Lindbergh Bay
Water Gymnastics
Wendy and Elmers departure bay, with a couple of days to relax and unwind and get psyched up for them leaving us.
Walk along Lindbergh beach
The water is almost glassy calm, so another swim and then a dinghy ride back into Charlotte Amalie for one more kick at convincing the guys that Diamonds, Rubies and Emeralds are the perfect way to top off a holiday. Still no joy!
<>
Black Beard
Not too good a view from the stockade
Instead we head up the mountain to check out Blackbeards Castle and the fabulous view.
Pretty touristy, but some great old homes to view as well as an Amber museum, where the guys finally broke down and bought us some Amber – which is really just million year old pine tree sap that has hardened into a gem type shape. Interestingly, the pieces with bugs and mosquitos imbedding within are the most valuable. Just goes to show, you won’t know what little treasures the generations 1000’s or 1000000’s of years from now with find value in. ( Buy the way- we both got an imbedded bug)
Amber waterfall....worth 2.5 million
Day 20 Last day on the Beach
Lindeburgh Bar Flies
A little more, sun, sand and water, then we’re back to the boat for a quick lunch, dinghy to the hotel breakwall, then a walk, yes a 5 min walk to the airport. This time we think their luggage got on with them. We hope.
Sailboat owners Gord and Sue aboard their 55' Whitby Ketch "Ocean Wings" share their adventures and travels as they start their retirement, living their dream of seeing the world from oceanside. Ocean Wings is a recent purchase and our first foray into the Sailing Lifestyle. We're excited and a little scared. Join us in our adventure.
