Guadaloupe

 

 



 

The passage to Guadaloupe was just over 35 miles from Montserrat but the seas that were supposed to be calm and about 3 to 4 ft, were considerably higher and bumpier than expected and took 8 hours. Guadaloupe is a French island , and it was evident  the minute we entered the harbour. Crowded and Close. But we're here, anchored close, and it's not an option to turn around and go back. 

crowded Anchorage

We're in Deshaie harbour and it has a very distinct French flavour, starting with the shop and restaurant owners that either can't or won't speak any English. The streets are narrow, the cars are very European and shiny new and the restaurants line the waterfront and surrounding streets. 



French cars in Deshaie

The harbour at DesHaie offers mooring balls, but they are so close together that only small boats can hook up and then everyone else is just way too close and so they put out very little scope on their chain and of course the worry is if you drag anchor into the boat behind or beside.  We put out our usual 150 ft , but the french boat beside us put out only 60 ft. In the night we swung so close, their bow passed just feet from our stern, once dawn broke everyone got nervous, we were too close to the french boat and  Tom & Megs we too close to the rocks, we decided to just get out of there. perhaps the next harbour will be better. 

French idea of dropping in your cockpit ( French Canadian in this case)

However, our windlass . ( for pulling up the anchor) decided it was time for a holiday as well and after pulling up about 50 of our 150 ft, just quit. Luckily Tom raced over in his dinghy and the guys pulled the anchor up by hand, while I tried my darndest to keep us from hitting the french boat or crashing on the rocks ( which we were only inches away from)
Finally we made our way out of there, headed for Pigeon Island and the Jacque Cousteau underwater park. It rained all the way down the coast and the fog was as dense as pea soup.. We dropped the hook at Pigeon Island, had lunch and got underway again, it was just too overcast to get a decent snorkel.   We arrived in Basse Terre a few hours later and dropped the hook in 32 ft of water off a totally black sand beach.  Tom & Meg headed directly into the very tight marina for fuel and water. 

marina obstacles

The frenchies were very rude and one little french girl insulted Meg over her lack of French language skills. The icing on the cake for what was a very stressful day. We had dinner aboard and played some Euchre.
In the morning we walked into the town, picked up some amazing baguettes and croissants and some fresh veggies. Gord did several runs to the fuel dock with jugs for fuel as the marina manoeuvring room was way too tight for us. We invited the neighbouring boat, Steve and Natasha on Turning Point over for happy hour. 

Paul and Natasha from "Turning Points"

Its weird how you get a different perspective on your boat from someone else's cockpit.
Steve looked over, admiring his boat and immediately saw that the radar was just hanging by a thread, fast exit, bosuns chair out and up the mast he went. the bracket, only a few months old had broken in 2.  The Radar was remove and stowed and happy hour continued. 


Paul retrieving his broken radar



 

Paul up his mast

 

We walked around the marina which had a weird configuration of restaurants, all the tables together, but separate kitchens and menus for about 6 different  restaurants up against the wall. sort of a high end, gourmet, french , food court. A couple of guys gave Meg and I a hug and redeemed the French in Megs eyes.


our new French friends

Tomorrows plan was to rent a car and see the island. 


Sunset from the stern

But,
The Rock and Roll all night long was so bad we ended up sleeping sideways on the bed. Got out of bed exhausted and exited that harbour without our car tour and instead headed for Isle de Saintes





southern point as we leave Guadaloupe

Montserrat

 

The weather predictions say the winds will be light but SE (which is right on our nose) until about 11 am,  then East, our desired direction that is if we want to actually sail to Montserrat.  Like true tourists with itchy to-go-itis, we're off the mooring ball by 7 am. and surprise, surprise, the winds are light from the SE. With our usual mizzen and jib up, we bobbed along at an incredible 2.5- 3 knots. The mainsail? (not sure what that looks like) hasn't been out of the stack pack in over 4 years, I'm thinking of turning it into a sun awning. Hopefully, we make the 30 miles before dark.  And we do!
 

Ocean Wings in Little Bay









We cruise to Little Bay, headed for the spot behind Tom and Megs, just then a sailboat comes from in front of them, does a u-turn, cuts us off and Sue slams it in reverse to prevent bumper-boats and then he drops his anchor where we intended. But there are other spots and we get anchored, but we're now way out in 40 ft of water and at the mercy of the rolling waves. Just as we contemplate moving somewhere calmer a French boat comes in and does what French boats always do... drops in front of us and backs down over our anchor.  Now it's impossible to move. Tom and Megs, on their way back from our boat to theirs, mention to him that he is over our anchor, he looks down into the crystal clear Caribbean waters and there we are off his transom. Now, this is a first for a Frenchie, he actually moves! We're in shock but it's getting dark and just not prudent to move, we'll wait till morning.
At 7:30 we've upped the anchor, leaving it dangling and move forward into a spot that has just been vacated by another boat. Sweet.  But what the *#**#? -- as we move forward a Nicholson 36 yacht named "Gin Rummy" comes full power trying to cut us off, he breaches our right of way, speeds up and cuts right across our bow, turns into the wind and drops his anchor right in front of us. I had to reverse to keep from putting Ocean Wings bow right into his rear cockpit. Talk about rude. We drift back and drop our anchor, but not in the spot we intended. It's going to be another rock-n-roll night.
Enough is enough, I jump in the water, to check on whether our anchor is set and right  over and to meet this rude boater, Mr. Gin Rummy, to let him know he's about to become famous....... "For being the rudest boater in the Caribbean" I'm  going to  publish my shots and video of his stunt on You tube and on sailing blogs. 

 
   

 

Irregardless, the day is to be enjoyed and explored. We picked a local tour guide "Bob" to take us to view the power of Mother Nature and the aftermath of the eruption of the volcano in 2010.  Unbelievable does not begin to describe it.
The whole town of Plymouth was destroyed by lava flows moving at 80 miles per hour  engulfing everything in its path in a matter of hours. 

 
 

Plymouth Harbour



 

After 2 stories high

Before 3 stories high

3 story buildings were engulfed  by lava to their second story, a beautiful golf course was completely obliterated. 





Pro Shop after

Golf Course after






Methodist Church before   and   after                               

 

The world famous Montserrat Springs Hotel, on the hillside overlooking the ocean had lava and mud invade its hallways, fill the swimming pool, engulf its offices and half bury the poolside bar. The burned out office still had a brochure advertising rooms at $750.00 per night.


 

Our Guide  "Bob" at Montserrat Springs Hotel

 

 




  

 



 The devastation was both complete and final, as most of the homes, hotels and businesses are still abandoned and in prohibited areas, lying in the shadow of the Mt. Soufriere Volcano. 


Intersection Before





Intersection after

Little Bay, where we anchored, is on the north side of the island, away from the next threat from this still active volcano. They are rebuilding their town in this location and it is evident by the new beachside structures and the newness of the harbour area. 
Steam, dark smoke and acrid sulfur is still belching from this volcano and it is still constantly pouring from its summit in a sombre reminder of "who's in charge here".
Bob, our tour guide lost his home and everything in it that day. His whole family was evacuated to England and they lost everything also. He now works as a Security Guard at the Airport, and a tour guide on his days off. Almost all agriculture ended on the island when 19 farmers lost their lives and the voracious volcano ate all the arable agricultural land.

Mt Soufriere with Lava flow on left

 

 

 

 

The Montserrat Volcano Observatory is as close as you are allowed and perched high on a hillside looks straight at the peak. A helicopter ferries scientists and vulcanologists on flights of discovery with the hope of learning and predicting the next big bang. When Gord asked the locals if they were frightened by the volcano, they all replied, "Not at all".
Next morning, as we sailed from this anchorage on our way to Guadaloupe, the volcano was shrouded in mist, or is it steam building for its next display of its power? As we sailed along the coast, the sulfur was strong in the air and we could see where the lava flowed all the way into the ocean, creating a new future coastline that in years to come will be hidden by lush tropical vegetation that will hide the power beneath as it bides its time.
Seeing this tremendous force of nature so close up was both awe inspiring and terrifying.